Erin Paulsen
Soka Beach
Updated: May 21, 2020
A rainy day's wanderings.

Constantly in search of a new beach to explore, I decided to head to West in search of one of Bali's black sand beaches.
Once you head west the white and light brown sands of Uluwatu and Kuta beach fade into volcanic remains that line the shore with their dark, grey-black sands.
It was a moody day, complete with rain and clouds and gusts of cool wind. A welcome change to the relentless heat that's been bearing down on the island lately.
The waves were fierce, crashing hard against the cliffs and stones spit out from the mouths of volcanoes.
It's rare that I visit a beach under such gloomy conditions, but the beauty of this one was unquestionably enhanced under the rolling, stormy skies.
There's something special about being completely alone on an inspiring stretch of beach, and as I clambered over rocks and boulders, I felt my own energy merging with hers, our past and our present mingling into one truth.
There's a comfort found in being alone, and yet never truly alone.


It did feel abandoned. There is one small hut between the sand and the trees where a few lazy guys sat around on tables smoking cigarettes.
Up on the cliff sides, you could see forgotten little straw huts that must have welcomed excited visitors of days past.
Coconuts and palm fronds washed up on shore, unsure whether they wanted to be pulled back out to sea or lay forever at the feet of the cliffs.



This little hidden beach is about a 2-hour drive from Kuta and it will take you through all kinds of different scenery. There are adorable little backroads where all of the homes are equipped with intricate temples, crazy and congested highways that weave up and down the mountains, and small, gravel-lined paths that wind their way down to the sea.
Being Bali, the views of the rice terraces are ever-present, and the lush greenery that lines the horizons helps relieve the stress of the traffic you are most likely stuck in.


Before I set off, I was unsure whether the drive through the rain would be worth it.
It was, of course.
It's always worth it.